PlayLust

21ST CENTURY ORLANDO

The scene: backstage Orschel-Read AW 10/11, Freemason’s Hall, London

Aristo-punks with strong Tudor and Victorian leanings gone tribal, via Japan and bird references, but it’s all making sense, and my cam loves the styling. That was the instant gut verdict. It’s probably at odds with what the official show notes said. But they never hand out those to backstage photographers. By the way, I doubt customers know or care much about show prose which, let me put it mildly, tends to be rather pretentious. A propos prose: Stefan Orschel-Read’s theme for his Central Saint Martins menswear degree collection in 2008 was Mourning for Orlando. Clearly, Virginia Woolf’s free-spirited, time traveling and sex changing English aristo beau continues to be the menswear label’s target customer. Yes, Lady GaGa, Orlando’s 21st century incarnation, wears his clothes (rather famously on German TV show Wetten Dass ). Nicola Formichetti, her principal stylist, will surly be placing orders.

©PLAY HUNTER

Directional eyecatchers aside, the collection was actually rather in synch with the season’s strong outdoorsy and military theme. British heritage staples, like a roll-neck cable knit jumper, tweeds tailored into a zigzag jockey jacket, or a sharply cut belted coat number, all in various shades of burgundy, rusted leaves and mushroom, will broaden Orschel-Read’s appeal to customers other than Lady GaGa and fashion editors.

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Special mention for her tribal jewellery must go to Marie Parsons, a first year student at the RCA (Royal College of Art). She took part at the college’s recent Work in Progress exhibition. Definitely a name to watch. Sadly not online yet, but contact Marie via Fashion156. Hair pieces are by Tim Furssedonn.

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