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21ST CENTURY ORLANDO

The scene: backstage Orschel-Read AW 10/11, Freemason’s Hall, London

Aristo-punks with strong Tudor and Victorian leanings gone tribal, via Japan and bird references, but it’s all making sense, and my cam loves the styling. That was the instant gut verdict. It’s probably at odds with what the official show notes said. But they never hand out those to backstage photographers. By the way, I doubt customers know or care much about show prose which, let me put it mildly, tends to be rather pretentious. A propos prose: Stefan Orschel-Read’s theme for his Central Saint Martins menswear degree collection in 2008 was Mourning for Orlando. Clearly, Virginia Woolf’s free-spirited, time traveling and sex changing English aristo beau continues to be the menswear label’s target customer. Yes, Lady GaGa, Orlando’s 21st century incarnation, wears his clothes (rather famously on German TV show Wetten Dass ). Nicola Formichetti, her principal stylist, will surly be placing orders.

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Directional eyecatchers aside, the collection was actually rather in synch with the season’s strong outdoorsy and military theme. British heritage staples, like a roll-neck cable knit jumper, tweeds tailored into a zigzag jockey jacket, or a sharply cut belted coat number, all in various shades of burgundy, rusted leaves and mushroom, will broaden Orschel-Read’s appeal to customers other than Lady GaGa and fashion editors.

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Special mention for her tribal jewellery must go to Marie Parsons, a first year student at the RCA (Royal College of Art). She took part at the college’s recent Work in Progress exhibition. Definitely a name to watch. Sadly not online yet, but contact Marie via Fashion156. Hair pieces are by Tim Furssedonn.

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DOWNPOUR OF SOLID DAY DRESSES AT JONATHAN SAUNDERS

the scene: JONATHAN SAUNDERS AW10/11, Brick Lane, London

Wednesday morning in London looked and felt like next season’s key colours: slate grey meets shabby shades of brown in a wet-and-blustery-winds-kind-of-way. Perfect weather to explore the suitably rough and dirty looking East End neighbourhood of The Hoxton, my (luxury) hotel. Strolling down Kingsland Road, I punched in my iPhone’s notebook: rebel in style against the face of the ugly, it’s a v London attitude.

After a pitstop at Brick Lane bagel shop (trust me, they do the world’s best cream cheese & salmon bagel), I JUST made it to Jonathan Saunders a few blocks down, where they ushered me to my standing seat next to the photographers’ pit. Still, I enjoyed a splendid view across front row, where I spotted Carine Roitfeld in a very sharp camel coat. Before I had time to ponder much on the wondrous clash of French Vogue editrice with Brick Lane, off went the lights. In paraded the models in urban chic essentials: sparkling parkas, sporty drop waist dresses, and understated, but strategically placed patches of print. Though it lacked a standout stunner, the collection ensemble had a fresh, effortless & now feel about it.

If the deliberate absence of Saunders’ signature evening dresses in vibrant colours left a few fashion editors slightly disappointed, the Scottish designer could count on the strong support of an old and reliant ally: the miserable weather. As we were leaving the venue, solid downpour had set in on Brick Lane causing havoc among the unlucky many whose taxi wasn’t waiting right outside the exit doors. Next year, they’ll be happily defying rainy London Fashion Week afternoons in Saunders’ chic cocktail parkas.

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KOMAKINO

The scene: backstage Komakino AW10/11, Freemason’s Hall, London

The collection said Violator, the styling said early leather Depeche Mode, I say: Exciter.

KOMAKINO are Korean-Italian husband & wife team Jin Kim and Federico Capalbo. This is the 5th collection they’re showing during London Fashion Week. Watch the runway video here

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KINKY COUTURE AT ZIAD GHANEM

Last night, my friendly friends abducted me to a couture show in the basement of Victoria House in London’s Bloomsbury. An apt location, since show was themed on Walpurgis Night.

We arrived late. The atmosphere was very flamboyant vampyres on a night out with the kids from legendary Blitz Club, ca.1980. Sitting in front of me was a guy in a 70 hardrock jeans vest. In front row, I spotted a lady with a giant, crystal encrusted fish-headpiece complete with fluffy fins in pink. But what about the designer? Ziad Ghanem, my friends explained, is known for cutting-edge couture to which he adds a distinct dash of London underground swagger. This wasn’t going to be a show of understated luxury, I suspected.

Indeed, Ghanem delivered great fashion theater. Creatures of the night, in appearance and silhoutte resembling bejewelled and burlesque bats strutted it down the runway to the Psycho theme and Jazz versions of Crazy In Love. The cast starred kinky Victorian numbers, like a black bodice with winged shoulders, richly embellished corseted dresses, futurist headpieces, and afro prints. It was an otherwordly and OTT show, but all was held in place by strict zips and precise cuts.

The species of the eccentric fashion show may be endangered. But last night, it was alive and kicking.

It all culminated in a striptease
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The show was part of ON/OFF, the independent fashion showcase during London Fashion Week. For runway videos, fashion films etc… check out here

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(S)ASS & PRIDE

the scene: outside Machine-A presentation, Berwick Street. London in a nutshell: cheeky chic ra ra cha cha cha.

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