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SCHOOL’S IN FOREVER
As a school kid, I always felt personally offended by the fact the Swiss school system did not make school uniforms mandatory. Blame it on too much St. Clare’s and horse literature at too young an age. But I still nurture a fondness for British school uniforms. This is why one of the true highlights at London Fashion Week for me was running into these school girls. Just look at their navy blazers. So perennially stylish. I couldn’t understand why no other style blogger snapped their pic. But then, the girls couldn’t quite understand why a style blogger would be at all interested in them. Oh the confusion.
Stuff to ponder during today’s flight. And yes, it’s London bound.
© PLAY HUNTER
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Published 2010-08-31 23:54:01 in FASHION & PASSION
IN MEMORIAM CORINNE DAY
This picture changed everything.
© Corinne Day / Vogue UK
In the age of personal-style blogging and Facebook, the shock a freshfaced, if rather skinny Kate Moss posing against a radiator sent down the fashion world and beyond in 1993 seems hard to believe. Yet, as Belinda White recalls in The Telegraph:
Her style of photography, and that British Vogue shoot in particular, kicked off the whole grunge movement in the ‘90s in a blaze of controversy. No discernible make-up, natural light, girls with flaws (the bewilderment over how Kate Moss could ever be a model at her height, with no boobs and such knobbly knees took years to subside), were Corinne’s trademarks and Moss was her muse. Accusations of her promoting ‘heroine chic’ and anorexia did nothing to halt her industry appeal or her stellar career. Her work was so unmistakably British and effortlessly cool in a way that a million copycats could never hope to emulate, try as they might. Corinne was the real deal.
In an interview, Corinne Day mentioned another überimportant shift: during the shoot, Day noticed how Moss began to realise fully, and for the first time, her appeal as a model. The radiator picture marked, so to speak, the end of innocent, Croydon-girl Kate, and the transformation of Kate Moss, into a supermodel.
Personally, this picture changed everything:
Georgina, Brixton, London, 1995
I was on the foundation course at Saint Martins. For a collage project, we were asked to bring in old mags. I fished a copy of an i-D from the pile, randomly opened it, and there it was. The girl/boy. The mood. The pose. The roughness. The poetry. The personal big bang. Now I knew what pictures I wanted to shoot. The look of heroin chic became my heroine pic. I owe a lot to that Corinne Day fashion spread and her early photography.
Georgina, Brixton, London, 1995, George at the sunset, 1995 © Corinne Day / i-D /
I must admit, in the noughties Corinne by and large vanished from my radar. But over the last couple of years I’ve come across her early Kate pictures in exhibitions. Yes, they do capture so perfectly that rough early 90s London zeitgeist. But at the same time they captivate with their timeless beauty. A quality which is rare in fashion photography.
Corinne Day died last Friday August 27 aged 48 losing her long battle to a brain tumor.
Obituaries: The New York Times The Guardian
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Published 2010-08-27 11:03:40 in NEWS
FRIDAY: HOLIDAY!
Back in print: Friday Magazine handed me out a disposable analog cam to cover my holidays. Check out my “grand summer vacation” in the Swiss provinces here or in the beautful print version.
© FRIDAY / PLAY HUNTER
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Published 2010-08-25 13:10:56 in PLAYLUST KOMPAKT (DE) SCHWINGFEST
PLAYLUST KOMPAKT NO 22: SCHWINGEN, SCHWEISS UND SWISSNESS
Und jetzt mal was ganz anderes. Am Wochenende besuchte ich das Eidgenössische Schwing- und Älplerfest in Frauenfeld. Als wahrscheinlich erste Schwinger-Paparazza. Und erlag dem bärbeissigen Charme schwergewichtiger Männer in urchigen Edelweisshemden und Twillhosen, die sich im Sägemehl ringen. Wer hätte gedacht, dass Schweiss und Swissness soviel Spass macht? Ein Schwing- und Stilbericht.
Das Eidgenössische Schwing-und Älplerfest: Es riecht nach Swissness-Falle und etwas streng nach gegrilltem Fleisch, Raclette und Caipirinha. Und abends nach Ballermann-trifft-Oktoberfest. Knorrige Bauern mit Stumpen und Strohhüten. Stiernackige Schwinger mit Hang zum Übergewicht. Lebendpreise (Kühe, Pferde und natürlich Stier Arnold, der Hauptpreis)! Jodelchörli. Klingt nicht nur extrem uncool, ist extrem uncool. Und genau darauf steht mir der Sinn, seit längerem.
Hingucker: So hat man eine Fashionista wohl noch nie gesehen © PLAY HUNTER
Kommen wir zum Wesentlichen, dem Dresscode. Der ist einfach und lautet: Egal, Hauptsache Edelweisshemd. Genau das von den Plakaten, wo es an Ex-Schönheitsköniginnen und anderer helvetischer C-Prominenz für die Schweizer Bauern wirbt. Was bislang einen Kauf verhinderte. Am Schwingfest gab es vor dem Edelweisshemd kein Entrinnen. Schnell kapierte ich auch warum: Es ist der textilgewordene Schweizer Kompromiss. Das Hemd einigt den hippen Städter mit dem traditionsbewusstem Landwirt. Die alpine Antwort auf die Jeans steht einfach jedem. Egal ob in lang- oder kurzärmlig, in grau, grün oder braun. Am schönsten aber ist die hellblaue Version ohne Kragen. Und am besten trägt man das Hemd zu schlichtem Denim, die Ärmel hochgekrempelt.
So richtig rock’n'rollig aber sieht das Edelweisshemd erst an einem Schwinger frisch vom Kampf aus, wenn an ihm Sägemehl, Schweiss, manchmal sogar Blut klebt:
Ich fand den Anblick so faszinierend, dass ich zur wohl ersten Paparazza von Schwingern frisch vom Kampf wurde. Das ist etwas peinlich, aber nötig für mein Bild der Schwinger und ihrem Sport: Urchig-Bös, kampfesmutig aber auch: menschlich, ungeschönt.
Neben seinen kräftig gebauten Schwingerkollegen wirkt Kilian Wenger (101 Kilo, 1.90 m) wie ein Znünibueb. Auch im Auftreten ist der Zwanzigjährige Schwinger mit der Statur eines Schwimmers anders. Siegorientierter. Ein Achtungfertiglos-Typ. Tunnelblick an. Rein in die Arena. Kampf. Sieg. Raus aus der Arena. Keine Interviews. Kein Posing. Keine Autogramme. Falls er kampfesmüde ist, zeigt er es nicht. Auch als Schwingerkönig bleibt der Diemtigtaler mit Gefühlsäusserungen bescheiden.
Dafür kennen die Medien kein Halten mehr Für den Boulevard ist der König jetzt vor allem -OMG!- Mr Single und bodenständiges Pin-up. Der Rest und die Fachexperten aus Sport-und Marketing sind sich einig: Aus Wenger Kilian wird der Roger Federer des Schwingsports. Oder zumindest der bessere Mr Schweiz. Weil: Jung. Schön. Bescheiden. Schweizerisch eben.
Klingt gut. Klingt aber auch verdächtig nach Atelier Pfister, der neuen, zeitgeistigen Linie des grundbiederen Schweizer Möbelhauses. Die PR definiert Zeitgeist so: radikale Qualität durch grundsolides Handwerk und zeitbeständiges Design, das sich vom Rest abhebt. Das klingt so schweizerisch wie austauschbar. Nur so gesagt.
Radikale Qualität und grundsolides Handwerk: Werte, die sowohl Atelier Pfister als auch Schwingerkönig Kilian Wenger repräsentieren. © Atelier Pfister
Ob Zeitgeist oder nicht – urchiges Brauchtum wie Schwingfeste ist wieder voll gesellschaftsfähig, das bestätigen die Zahlen: 250′000 Festbesucher in Frauenfeld. Rekord! 700′000 Zuschauer lockte der Schlussgang am Schweizer Fernsehen an, das 18-Stunden live vom Event berichtete. Klingt eindeutig nach Triumpf des Ländlichen über die Stadt, vor allem das arrogante Zürich. Ist aber eindeutig falsch: Schweizer Brauchtum wie das Schwingen oder Ländlermusik wurde zwar auf dem Land oder in den Bergen geboren. Populär haben es aber die Städter gemacht. Die moderne Volksmusik wurde vor rund achtzig Jahren in Zürichs Tanzkaschemmen geboren. Die Musikanten vom Land verdienten hier ihr Geld als Tanz-und Unterhaltungsmusiker. Sie hiessen Kari Keiser oder Sepp Stocker und waren sozusagen die DJs ihrer Generation. Der erfolgreichste Schwinger aller Zeiten, Karl Meli, kommt aus der einstigen Industriestadt Winterthur.
Anyway. Das Eigenössische machte sehr viel Spass. Viel mehr Spass als jede Zürcher-Szeneparty, wo man ja immer so angestrengt auf Cool machen muss, dass es provinziell wirkt. Im Vergleich war am Schwingfest alles erfrischend einfach, unkompliziert und entspannt. Man kann auch sagen: Cool. Einfach auf schweizerische Art.
PS1: Wem das alles zuviel Swissness ist, kann ich damit beruhigen: Die nächste Kompakt kommt aus London und mit VIP-Faktor.
PS2: Wem das alles zuwenig Schwinger und Schwingfest ist, hier geht’s zur kompletten Berichterstattung
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Published 2010-08-25 13:08:08 in FASHION & PASSION SCHWINGFEST
FARMERS V FASHION 1:0
The scene: Eidgenössisches Schwing- und Älplerfest 2010, Frauenfeld
From a festival deeply rooted in the traditions of alpine farmers and herders you’d expect plenty of rustic folkore. I did find plenty of that, no doubt. But to be perfectly honest, I found all those far-from-fashion-as-possible farmers with their cheroots, vests and straw hats rather cool. They may not give a damn about the edicts of the style police (chunky sandals! beer bellies!) but hey, our farmer guys follow their own style, are happy with it – and let me share a wide open secret: I’m ever so tired of looking at fash ppl trying too darn hard to look cool.
Still, there were sightings of truly outstanding sartorial elegance. My favourite is this old farmer who has paired traditional costume with a bow-tie and and his sunday-best jacket. Add the nonchalant way he holds his cigar – in my opinion, his look rivals the coolness of those Italian men so loved by The Sartorialist.
© PLAY HUNTER
more Swiss wrestling and farmer’s looks here
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Published 2010-08-24 11:50:17 in FASHION & PASSION
THE NOVEMBRE ISSUE
Forget about the September issues. Because the month to be in fashion magazines right now is November. Courtesy to NOVEMBRE magazine, the new bible for emerging fashion and contemporary art with a Swiss focus.
If you think: Switzerland? Heidiland? Fashion hinterland! Then my friends, you think oh so wrong. NOVEMBRE is proof, we too are capable of doing ambitious, international, cutting-edge, and put it into mag that can sit proudly next to the likes of METAL, GREY, or ANOTHER.
A portrait of Swiss designer Redley Exantus and her fab moon print collection
A word of warning though to us lovers of online fashion: NOVEMBRE does not come in fast food format. As it is the case with many magazines these days, NOVEMBRE is clearly aimed at conoisseurs of print. It’s heavy, texts are long, and come in the Swiss national languages of French, German and English. But readers are rewarded with fab photo spreads. And that most satisfactory feeling of holding a future collectible in our hands.
© Novembre Magazine
NOVEMBRE Magazine NY launch today, Tues Aug 24, 7pm at Swiss Institute
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Published 2010-08-23 10:00:51 in FASHION & PASSION SCHWINGFEST
A NEW KING
The scene: Eidgenössisches Schwing- und Älplerfest 2010, Frauenfeld
On day two at Schwingfest wrestling tournament, fights, as well as temperatures, intensified. Which didn’t deter me from papping wrestlers fresh after fight:
Kilian Wenger irresistably won all of his eight fights. At the end of the two-day tournament, the 20 year old got elected King of Swiss Wrestlers. The National Anthem was played. Outside the ring, Wenger’s of the tough, tight-lipped and camera-shy sort, avoiding the glare of the media – like most schwingers. I think this is way in Switzerland they’re champions for life, and so loved, we, a proud nation of direct democracy, call them kings. Long live the king. See you in three years’ time in Burgdorf at the next Eidgenössische.
© PLAY HUNTER
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Published 2010-08-22 01:35:25 in FASHION & PASSION SCHWINGFEST
FRESH FROM FIGHT
The scene: Eidgenössisches Schwing- und Älplerfest, Frauenfeld, Day one.
Out of the 285 Swiss wrestlers participating in the Schwing tournament, I caught ca. 100 fresh from fight, their faces and bodies still covered in sawdust, sweat, and sometimes, blood. This one is the roughest & fiercest so far.
© PLAY HUNTER
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Published 2010-08-21 09:36:35 in FASHION & PASSION SCHWINGFEST
SWISS WRESTLING
And now for something completely different.
This weekend, your style hunter is swapping the glitter & glam world of fashion with the archaic world of sawdust, wrestling breeches and edelweiss-shirts: I’m reporting from Eidgenössischem Schwing-und Älplerfest. The most important of Swiss folk wrestling tournaments takes place every three years, this time in Frauenfeld. The hugely popular sporting event, attracts mostly crowds from the Swiss provinces and countryside. No fashionistas, plenty of farmers, plenty of fierce looking wrestlers. Hence my interest to attend.
Here’s a brief intro to our national sport from Wikipedia:
The match takes place in a ring, a circular area with a diameter of 12 meters that is covered with sawdust. The two opponents wear short pants made of jute over their clothes. The wrestlers hold each other by these pants, at the back where the belt meets, and try to throw the opponent onto his back. More
The winner of the Eidgenössische Schwing tournament is given the kingly title and status of Schwingerkönig – and a live bull.
Whether this William Tell lookalike’s wearing the remnants of a former royal prize win could not be established.
© PLAY HUNTER
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Published 2010-08-20 12:40:28 in FASHION & PASSION OTHER RUNWAYS
RAD RIDE
What fall trends to fall for? How about the microtrend for bicycle shorts? Don’t laugh now. Because, well, remember how we laughed when leggings came back around 2007? Well, six seasons on, and that look is still going strongly in the highstreets the world over. In fashion, that’s a very long time.
The trick with bicycle shorts of course is take them out of their bicycle context. The sweat. The pale hairy legs. The… general ugliness and strictly verboten-ess of it all. Instead, contrast with floral blouses, or chiffon maxi dresses. Throw over an aviator or denim jacket and put on high-heeled hiking-boots, or heavy boots with socks, that other improbable fall trend. The person to channel for that so.of.the.moment country-meets-tough-downtown look is Chloë Sevigny.
If you’re more into a couture-futurist take on the bicycle short, take a good eyeful of this Nicole Hauri piece for inspiration. It’s from her degree collection, which made her the breakout star of this year’s Basel Institute BA line-up – I was raving on about it here (in German, but simply scroll down to the pictures). Seeing Nicole shine again among her pals from Berlin and Paris at Young at Art FahionNight gives me hope her career will take off like leggings.
© PLAY HUNTER
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