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STIL IN BERLIN
She portrays her cosmopolitan and very stylish Berlin friends and artist acquaintances. If you like Mary and her blog Stil in Berlin, you’ll love the photography of Berlin-based Marianne Breslauer who captured everyday life and style – in the 1930’s. Born into a high-bourgeois family, Marianne was a pioneer in the at that time still young medium of photography. The mise-en-scene of decadent Berlin life was not her thing. What caught Breslauer’s eyes, and what made her innovative, was her interest in the everyday, and often overlooked things. As a photo-journalist for German magazines, she caught people at art auctions, circus artistes in Paris or portrayed working girls at home and at leisure. Her mix of reportage, portraiture, and fashion make her a kind of proto-blogger – roughly 80 years ahead of time.
She travelled to Palestine and Spain, but was eventually forced to emigrate to Amsterdam because of the Nazis. By 1938, Breslauer was finished with photography. “If I had continued to work in that field”, she later explained “I would have turned to film. For me, 10 years were certainly enough.” Marianne Breslauer brought up two sons and, following her husband’s death, took over the management of the Feilchenfeldt art dealing company. She died in Zurich in 2001.
There’s such a stylish timelessness and almost eerie nowness about her portraits. I really can’t take my eyes off them. They say cool without trying. What with the overload of streetstyle images picturing the same fashionweekistas over and over again, I find myself increasingly asking: what’s the point? What’s the point of freezing outside a Paris fashion show trying hard not get another style snapper in the picture? What’s the point of hunting for style when style has become a kind of uniform? And more importantly, what will remain? Will people still bother to look at what we wore in 80 years’ time? Marianne Breslauer’s oeuvre says yes. Good style never dates. There will always be a demand for pioneering style worn by free-spirited individuals, caught by a fresh and innovative eye. That’s the point.
Marianne Breslauer – Photographs
Exhibition at Swiss Foundation of Photography, Winterthur
Feb 26 through to May 30, 2010
Models at Joe Strasser, Berlin 1932
© All images are from the highly recommended book Marianne Breslauer/Fotografien
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Published 2010-03-10 10:37:29 in MODEL CITIZENS
PARTISAN
A member of London’s rising Robin Hood brigade.
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© PLAY HUNTER
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Published 2010-03-05 11:49:02 in MODEL CITIZENS
THE GOLDEN BOY WHO FELL TO EARTH
the scene: Swiss Music Awards 2010, Schiffbau, Zurich
This golden boy is quite possibly one of the most impossibly beautiful creatures ever to have fallen to earth – and it speaks Schwiizerdüütsch, Swiss German. It landed straight in Ke$ha’s troupe of golden dancers, landing itself the co-choreo’s job.
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© PLAY HUNTER
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Published 2010-03-04 14:31:56 in MODEL CITIZENS
THE DANDY AND THE BARON
the scene: Swiss Music Awards 2010, Schiffbau, Zurich
The Award for Outstanding Achievement went to Boris Blank and Dieter Meier of Yello. Very deservedly so, I’d say. You’re looking at the original Zurich style icons. Ever since the duo first conquered international dance floors in the eighties with hits like You Gotta Say Yes to Another Excess or Viscious Games, their signature flamboyant bourgeois attire has become the uniform of choice for every self-respecting Zurich man. Styles are a-changing, the dilemma always is: Dandy Meier or Baron Blank? So hard to choose.
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Dandy Meier (left) and Baron Blank (right)
© PLAY HUNTER
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Published 2010-03-03 13:31:37 in MODEL CITIZENS
RED VELVET FACTOR
the scene: Swiss Music Awards 2010, Schiffbau, Zurich
Ok, Swiss Music Awards, it’s not the Brit Awards. Because Swiss music’s rather like Swiss fashion: pocket versions of international mainstream numbers, usually released at least two years too late. Add our national obsession to roll out the red carpet for even the most provincial event. So instead of Lady GaGa in Lee McQueen, we got Ke$ha bringing in that missing international superstar factor. Regrettably in something looking dangerously NYC, Canal Street.
Still, Hollywood factor wasn’t completely absent on the red carpet in the mixed zone where us media people had the opportunity to fire off questions and cameras at award winners and life acts. This was mainly down to Carlos Leal, a Swiss music legend and the actor who played the croupier in James Bond film Casino Royale. Switzerland’s answer to Jude Law wore a moustache and a velvet dinner jacket in burgundy red with a deep v-neck in slate which helped the eye focusing on his chest hair. That’s a tricky look to carry off, but Leal mastered it with great bravura, staying safely on the Tom Ford side of italianate.
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Leal also had enough style to answer each of the many pressing questions from my journalist colleagues with stoic patience and sweet charm. As I was waiting for a particularly ardent female journo to finish her radio interview for my take of Carlos (for another project) I discovered a true style sensation: his wrist scarf. Now that’s something I haven’t come across before. Which leaves me with plenty of ooh ahh and the fine words: first seen at Swiss Music Awards 2010.
© PLAY HUNTER
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Published 2010-03-01 08:30:29 in London Fashion Week
21ST CENTURY ORLANDO
The scene: backstage Orschel-Read AW 10/11, Freemason’s Hall, London
Aristo-punks with strong Tudor and Victorian leanings gone tribal, via Japan and bird references, but it’s all making sense, and my cam loves the styling. That was the instant gut verdict. It’s probably at odds with what the official show notes said. But they never hand out those to backstage photographers. By the way, I doubt customers know or care much about show prose which, let me put it mildly, tends to be rather pretentious. A propos prose: Stefan Orschel-Read’s theme for his Central Saint Martins menswear degree collection in 2008 was Mourning for Orlando. Clearly, Virginia Woolf’s free-spirited, time traveling and sex changing English aristo beau continues to be the menswear label’s target customer. Yes, Lady GaGa, Orlando’s 21st century incarnation, wears his clothes (rather famously on German TV show Wetten Dass ). Nicola Formichetti, her principal stylist, will surly be placing orders.
©PLAY HUNTER
Directional eyecatchers aside, the collection was actually rather in synch with the season’s strong outdoorsy and military theme. British heritage staples, like a roll-neck cable knit jumper, tweeds tailored into a zigzag jockey jacket, or a sharply cut belted coat number, all in various shades of burgundy, rusted leaves and mushroom, will broaden Orschel-Read’s appeal to customers other than Lady GaGa and fashion editors.
© PLAY HUNTER
Special mention for her tribal jewellery must go to Marie Parsons, a first year student at the RCA (Royal College of Art). She took part at the college’s recent Work in Progress exhibition. Definitely a name to watch. Sadly not online yet, but contact Marie via Fashion156. Hair pieces are by Tim Furssedonn.
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Published 2010-02-27 15:43:16 in London Fashion Week
DOWNPOUR OF SOLID DAY DRESSES AT JONATHAN SAUNDERS
the scene: JONATHAN SAUNDERS AW10/11, Brick Lane, London
Wednesday morning in London looked and felt like next season’s key colours: slate grey meets shabby shades of brown in a wet-and-blustery-winds-kind-of-way. Perfect weather to explore the suitably rough and dirty looking East End neighbourhood of The Hoxton, my (luxury) hotel. Strolling down Kingsland Road, I punched in my iPhone’s notebook: rebel in style against the face of the ugly, it’s a v London attitude.
After a pitstop at Brick Lane bagel shop (trust me, they do the world’s best cream cheese & salmon bagel), I JUST made it to Jonathan Saunders a few blocks down, where they ushered me to my standing seat next to the photographers’ pit. Still, I enjoyed a splendid view across front row, where I spotted Carine Roitfeld in a very sharp camel coat. Before I had time to ponder much on the wondrous clash of French Vogue editrice with Brick Lane, off went the lights. In paraded the models in urban chic essentials: sparkling parkas, sporty drop waist dresses, and understated, but strategically placed patches of print. Though it lacked a standout stunner, the collection ensemble had a fresh, effortless & now feel about it.
If the deliberate absence of Saunders’ signature evening dresses in vibrant colours left a few fashion editors slightly disappointed, the Scottish designer could count on the strong support of an old and reliant ally: the miserable weather. As we were leaving the venue, solid downpour had set in on Brick Lane causing havoc among the unlucky many whose taxi wasn’t waiting right outside the exit doors. Next year, they’ll be happily defying rainy London Fashion Week afternoons in Saunders’ chic cocktail parkas.
© PLAY HUNTER
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Published 2010-02-25 15:42:33 in London Fashion Week
KOMAKINO
The scene: backstage Komakino AW10/11, Freemason’s Hall, London
The collection said Violator, the styling said early leather Depeche Mode, I say: Exciter.
KOMAKINO are Korean-Italian husband & wife team Jin Kim and Federico Capalbo. This is the 5th collection they’re showing during London Fashion Week. Watch the runway video here
© PLAY HUNTER
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Published 2010-02-25 01:12:42 in PLAYLUST KOMPAKT (DE)
PLAYLUST KOMPAKT NO 10
Diese Woche war ich in London auf Stil-Pirsch zwischen Laufsteg und East End. Warum macht die Stadt in Sachen Mode einfach alles geiler als der Rest der Welt? Das muss definitiv der einzige Ort sein, wo die Strasse mehr Originaltät und Exzentrik bietet als die Laufsteg-Szene – die verdammt gut aussieht, versteht sich. Habe in drei Tagen London so viele Bilder geschossen, wie in drei Jahren Zürich, schätze ich mal. Jedenfalls sagt mein Mac jetzt: Kein Speicher mehr! Nicht mal den eigenen Blog zeigt er noch richtig an. Auch ich bin nach Backstage-Exzessen (u.a. im Londoner Freimaurer Tempel) und ausgiebigen Stilwanderungen bei bestem Britenwetter, also Dauerregen, so ziemlich auf dem letzten Zacken. Aber wie heisst es doch: Stirb vor Erschöpfung, nicht aus Langeweile. Doch bevor mein Laptop und ich endgültig den Schirm zumachen: Der Londoner Übertrend heisst PARKA! PARKA! PARKA! Und zwar eindeutig die abgewetzte Sorte. Die es praktischerweise bei Topshop zu kaufen gibt. Dazu gehört zwingend eine Messenger-Tasche aus braunem Leder oder Opas Leintuch-Rucksack. Die Haare sind bevorzugt weiss und an einer Seite glattrasiert. Die Londonerinnen halten dem Amy Winehouse-Lidstrich weiterhin die Treue. Szenige Londoner Jungs sehen aus wie eine Kreuzung zwischen Sherlock Holmes und dem jungen Dylan.
Die besten London Looks, Backstage-Bilder und Showreports aus London laufend neu gibt es ab sofort
hier, so meine Festplatte will. Bon appétit!
© Play Hunter
Schlagzeilen machte diese Woche auch Burberry Prorsum. Nicht wegen des mit grossem Pi Pa Po angekündigten Live-Streams. Das ist ist mittlerweile Old News, sogar die eher rückständigen Mailänder Modehäuser streamen jetzt live (siehe unten). So wirklich innovativ und ein extrem cleverer Marketing-Schachzug von Burberry war aber die Möglichkeit, die gezeigten Sachen gleich simultan zum Stream vorzubestellen. Das Angebot ist noch bis am 26. Februar gültig, btw.
Der Live-Stream erinnerte im Stil stark an eine typische CNN-Breaking News Übertragung (ironischerweise wurde der Stream auch auf CNN übertragen). Das war alles perfekt inszeniertes Fashion Frontline-Reporting. Dumm nur, dass die Kombination Trenchcoat + Mikro + Liveübertagung einfach zu sehr Reportermantel ist. Und das ist ein Cliché, von dem sich selbst hartgesottene und kriegserprobte CNN-Starreporter längst verabschiedet haben. Die tragen jetzt sehr tighte graue Jersey T-Shirts, die die gestählte Oberkörpermuskulatur perfekt zur Geltung bringen. Wie zuletzt gesehen in Haiti. Merke: Trenchcoats gehen höchstens an Mode-und Lifestylejournalisten.
This is Burberry, reporting live from Horseferry House, London, England
Die nächsten Fashionshow Live-Übertragungen finden hier statt:
26. Februar: Jil Sander 19.45 Uhr via eigene Website
27. Februar: Gucci 11.45 Uhr via Facebook-Fanpage
28. Februar: Dolce & Gabbana 13.00 Uhr exklusiv via iPhone
Rot ist tot. Die New York Fashion Week hat den Roten Teppich Look gekillt. Marc Jacobs, wie immer der Trendsetter, hat die Promis aus der ersten Reihe gekippt. Weil zu teuer, zu wenig Geschmack, zuviele Paparazzis im Schlepptau. Vor allem aber: weil aus der Mode gekommen. Wir weinen keine Träne nach. Nach den Exzessen der Nullerjahre und in wirschaftlich harten Zeiten richten die Designer den Hauptfokus wieder auf die Kernzielgruppe: Die Kundinnen. Die haben nicht unbedingt das Bedürfnis nach Abendkleidern, die VIP-Lifestyle schreien oder zumindest einen Chauffeur zwingend vorschreiben. Dafür dominieren auf den Laufstegen jetzt glamourös-graue Tagkleider. Für Frauen mit Business-Lifestyle. Understated Luxury lautet die Losung. Jemand muss das einfach noch unseren C-Promis beibringen. Nun warten wir gespannt auf die Oskar-Nacht. Wird der Rote Teppich so grau wie die neue Herbstmode?
Oh, à propos Marc Jacobs. Backstage bei Marc by Marc Jacobs sah unter anderem so aus.
WERDE PLAYLUST FAN AUF FACEBOOK
VERFOLGE PLAYLUST AUF TWITTER
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Published 2010-02-24 08:37:33 in London Fashion Week
KINKY COUTURE AT ZIAD GHANEM
Last night, my friendly friends abducted me to a couture show in the basement of Victoria House in London’s Bloomsbury. An apt location, since show was themed on Walpurgis Night.
We arrived late. The atmosphere was very flamboyant vampyres on a night out with the kids from legendary Blitz Club, ca.1980. Sitting in front of me was a guy in a 70 hardrock jeans vest. In front row, I spotted a lady with a giant, crystal encrusted fish-headpiece complete with fluffy fins in pink. But what about the designer? Ziad Ghanem, my friends explained, is known for cutting-edge couture to which he adds a distinct dash of London underground swagger. This wasn’t going to be a show of understated luxury, I suspected.
Indeed, Ghanem delivered great fashion theater. Creatures of the night, in appearance and silhoutte resembling bejewelled and burlesque bats strutted it down the runway to the Psycho theme and Jazz versions of Crazy In Love. The cast starred kinky Victorian numbers, like a black bodice with winged shoulders, richly embellished corseted dresses, futurist headpieces, and afro prints. It was an otherwordly and OTT show, but all was held in place by strict zips and precise cuts.
The species of the eccentric fashion show may be endangered. But last night, it was alive and kicking.
It all culminated in a striptease
© Play Hunter
The show was part of ON/OFF, the independent fashion showcase during London Fashion Week. For runway videos, fashion films etc… check out here
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Published 2010-02-23 10:28:32 in FASHION & PASSION London Fashion Week
(S)ASS & PRIDE
the scene: outside Machine-A presentation, Berwick Street. London in a nutshell: cheeky chic ra ra cha cha cha.
© Play Hunter
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Published 2010-02-18 22:43:22 in FASHION & PASSION
ARE RODARTE TOO ARTY?
What’s going on at Rodarte? During the live stream on ShowStudio, Kate and Laura Mulleavy explained in depth the starting points and inspirations for this season’s collection. Unfortunately, they did so in such an incomprehensible way the complex complexities of the sisters’ minds will remain a mystery to most. As will the answer to the inevitable question: how do you put that on the bodies of non-sleepwalking etheral beauties or Hollywood fans like Natalie Portman.
American fashion essentially dreams of modernism, it’s doing great at the casual and wearable/saleable. Not so Rodarte. Which makes them stand out – in a good way and in a bad way. Through their collections, the sisters regularly turn the American dream into a nightmare with David Lynch undertones. References include Japan (SS 08), Land Art (AW 09/10), or Frankenstein (SS10), reflecting the sisters’ backgrounds and interests in art&literature. As a result, you get that spectacular down-to-earth otherwordliness which has become the Rodarte trademark. Standing out is a rare quality in fashion business, especially in the U.S. It’s good to see it’s won Rodarte fans beyond the fashion hardcore, as successful collaborations with Target, Opening Ceremony, or Colette in Paris prove.
And yet, and yet. I’m less convinced of the sister’s more and more tighter interweaving of fashion and art. Rodarte’s astronomic price tags certainly are very art business.
But turn off the day-glo shoe effects, switch on the lights, put the collection out of the Gagosian art gallery, strip it off the lofty meanderings of the Mulleavy mind. Take a good look and compare with past collection. Some fashion critics, like The New York Time’s Cathy Horyn, find it’s less artistically executed than past collections.
Rodarte, I still love you, but please aim for the judgment of the fashion editor, not the art critic’s blessing. Because if you do, you’ll risk ending up just too arty-farty to fashion folks and too kitsch to art people. A nightmare scenario I don’t want those two fashion geniuses ever see exploring.
Quicktake: Rodarte
Exhibition at Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, NYC, until March 14, 2010
Can’t make it there? Check out the Rodarte dress portraits I took at Swiss Textiles Award 09 and 08:
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Published 2010-02-17 17:42:57 in FASHION & PASSION
HEAVEN-LEE CREATURE
Hope Lee McQueen was watching GaGa wearing his lace armour dress last night at the Brits from his spaceship.
© ITV 1
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Published 2010-02-17 00:14:42 in FASHION & PASSION
BACKSTAGE AT MARC BY MARC JACOBS
Just got these images in from my good friend Noel Stewart. He did the hat I wore at Swiss Textiles Award. Now, Marc Jacobs asked him to do the hats for Marc by Marc Jacobs AW10. And that’s exactly where Noel took the pictures. Yay, as in backstage MBYMY. Wow, I still can’t believe I’m remote-covering New York Fashion Week from right inside the epicentre of cool.
I’m still expecting to hear the inside story from Noel, so please come back later for updates.
© Noel Stewart
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Published 2010-02-15 17:00:29 in PLAY NEWS
WE’RE IN GLAMOUR GERMANY MARCH ISSUE
Playlust is back in Glamour Germany. We made it into 5 Cities 1 Trend: Blazers. We never made it to Sydney, though. I took the picture at Family Affairs AW10 show at Hubertus bar in Zurich. But I guess, Sydney sounds more glamorous.
© Glamour DE/ Play Hunter
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Published 2010-02-15 09:00:28 in FASHION & PASSION
GREEN GOES GLAM
Red carpet is not a term fashion animals usually associate with green fashion. Yes, we all want to make mother earth a better place. But we don’t quite want to look like her. A fact, many eco-labels still relying heavily on hippie and ethnic folklore will need to cotton on to. But a new crop of green labels is moving on from PET-bottle and T-shirt aesthetics. Welcome to the cutting edge of green couture.
Last Friday it met at Green Fashion Switzerland in Basel, the city better known as the global art hotspot. The event promised to send a ‘best of’ selection of global green designers on the catwalk, alongside eco-labels from sports & leisure.
If it was quite Swiss Textiles Award of green couture I cannot say. Partly because I’m new to eco lux fashion, partly because it was one outfit per label only. But most of what I saw on the runway was pretty impressive anyway. The labels’ online lookbooks confirm climate change in green fashion is definitely happening – and in a good way.
Here’s my selection:
FIN from Oslo, feat. that clean, pared down but ever so hot nordic signature style.
NOIR Sharp and edgy tailoring, v Vogue Paris friendly.
IVANA BASILOTTA V luxe, v floaty, v sophisticated Roman-inspired dresses in nude colours.
THE BATTALION Sexy jersey à la American Apparel for grown-ups who are also into chiffon.
LEILA HAFZI Vivid colours and prints, sumptuous evening dresses.
I caught up with the models seconds before they hit the runway. Pictured: Dress by Noir and trouser suit by Bllack Noir, their younger diffusion line.
© PLAY HUNTER
An afterthought:
Granted, Green Fashion Switzerland is only in its third year. But for a night dedicated to sustainable fashion I didn’t really see the point why the runway show was followed up by a rather lengthy award ceremony for a green innovation project which no fashion connection whatsoever. And please someone explain to me why the award had to include a car. Even if that’s a Toyota Prius the carbon footprint it’ll be leaving won’t be environmentally friendly.
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Published 2010-02-12 00:43:57 in FASHION & PASSION
LONG LIVE THE QUEEN
FASHION: I am fashion, your sister.
DEATH: My sister?
FASHION: Yes, don’t you remember, both of us are daughters of decay.
Giacomo Leopardi, Dialogue of Fashion and Death, 1842
why people ignore the ugly things in life but within this they are missing the beauty that lies under the rotten fruit!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tweet by Alexander McQueen February 1, 10:52 am, 2010
Hologram of Kate Moss, McQueen AW 2006 show:
(vid via rudavidal / thanks to g.platt for leopardi quote)
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Published 2010-02-10 16:56:59 in FASHION & PASSION
TRACKSUIT COUTURE
Call it luxury sportswear, superbowl couture, designer joggers. Fact is, tracksuit bottoms and grey marl have made the jump from gym to catwalk. The really, really cool thing about them is: they’re fashion!!! – yet super super easy. A logical progression from last year’s harem pants and a revived interest in rolled-up chinos and boyfriend jeans, designer trackies sit comfy on the hips but fit tightly on the ankle. You can take them from day to night and back, just change from ankle-boots to heels. I predict stretch cotton trackies are going to be one of those spring key-looks which will actually make it from fashion editorial to the street. BUT KEEP IN MIND: these pants are NOT made to make you sweat. DON’T take to the gym, beach or any kind of situation in which sneakers or flip-flops are mandatory.
Obviously, Alexander Wang is the designer to namedrop and picturequote. But I find fellow New York label Ohne Titel’s take on deluxe sweats equally exciting. Particularly what Flora Gill and Alexa Adams have done with the sweat pants’ longterm partner, the high-top lace-up, is worth a special mention:
Top marks too for their the midriff-baring top, another nineties inspired sports trend which will have many gym-resisting fashionistas panting for air this spring:
© PLAY HUNTER / shot backstage Swiss Textiles Award 09
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Published 2010-02-10 15:46:24 in PLAYLUST KOMPAKT (DE)
PLAYLUST KOMPAKT NO 9
GRAUZONEN UND ROTLICHTMILIEUS (PLUS NY FASHION WEEK)
Grauzonen Graue Haare mit Blaustich haben den Sprung vom Altersheim auf den Catwalk und die Häupter der Stilikonen Kate und Tavi geschafft. Warum? Warum nicht. Es muss für eine Siebzehnjährige ziemlich deprimierend sein, wenn Oldies, wie die eigene Mutter oder Madonna sich weigern, endlich Erwachsen zu werden. Und stattdessen hart auf Sweet 16 machen, oder sich machen lassen. Was bleibt der Jugend schon anderes übrig, als sich zur scharfen Abgrenzung an den Grosseltern zu orientieren? Ausser man heisst Andy Warhol, sieht graumeliert als Statement-Look nämlich nur cool am jugendlichen, das heisst, Botox-unversehrten Gesicht aus. Wie Kate herausfinden wird.
Wer sind die grösseren PR-Nutten: Modeblogger oder Modejournalisten? Der ansonsten seriöse englische Independent gab kürzlich diversen Vertretern der Modepresse die -vermutlich lang ersehnte- Gelegenheit, über die Blogger-Konkurrenz herzuziehen. Der Schuss ging nach hinten los, und zwar gründlich. Modeblogger als naive und käufliche PR-Sklaven zu bezeichnen, war so ziemlich das dümmste Argument, das gestandenen Moderedakteuren einfallen konnte. Es ist ein sehr offenes Geheimnis, dass das Verhältnis zwischen Modepresse und Modeindustrie von Korruption geprägt ist: Bei den Premium-Magazinen bestimmen die grossen Anzeigenkunden zentrale Inhalte wie Modestrecken und Editorials mit. Auf den Redaktionspulten landen regelmässig Geschenke in Form von Designerware, Kosmetik und Einladungen an VIP-Events, mit liebem Gruss von der PR-Abteilung. Es ist schwer, unter diesen Umständen was Kritisches über Anzeigenlabels zu schreiben und unabhängig zu bleiben, auch wenn das der Anspruch der Redakteure ist, unterstelle ich mal.
Andererseits: klar gibt es auch unter den Bloggern schwarze Schafe. Aber die haben bald keine Leser mehr. Denn der Leser ist ja nicht dumm. Blogger dürfen im Prinzip alles, ausser unglaubwürdig sein. Und das ist der entscheidende Punkt. Die Modebranche re-brandet sich gerade zur Kommunikationsplattform. Während der Fashionweek-Hochsaison werden sehr viele Moderedakteure, Blogger, aber auch Designer und Leser in sehr vielen Posts, Tweets und Facebook-Statusmeldungen ihre persönlichen Eindrücke mitteilen. Da sind pointierte Meinungen und Haltungen gefragt, ja auch eine gute Portion Witz und Klatsch. Aber sicher nicht plumpe PR und copy paste. Das will niemand mehr lesen, sowenig wie Rotlichtjournalismus. Adapt or die.
Darum liebe Journalisten, Blogger, Autoren, Kolumnisten mark my words:
… oder macht es wenigstens transparent / © Play Hunter
Wenn wir schon beim Thema sind: Heute beginnt die NEW YORK FASHION WEEK Die gute Nachricht für die Daheimgebliebenen: Einige der Top-Label streamen ihre Shows live. Hier die Programmvorschau:
Samstag, 13. Februar, 23.00 Uhr ALEXANDER WANG via ShowStudio
Sonntag, 14. Februar, 18.00 Uhr CALVIN KLEIN MEN’S via eigene Website und Facebook
Dienstag, 16. Februar, 02.00 Uhr MARC JACOBS via eigene Website
Dienstag, 16. Februar, 18.00 Uhr RODARTE via ShowStudio
Donnerstag, 18. Februar, 20.00 Uhr CALVIN KLEIN WOMEN’S via eigene Website und Facebook
Alle Angaben in Mitteleuropäischer Zeit
Grau, aber keine Maus Model backstage Peter Pilotto SS10
© Play Hunter
WERDE PLAYLUST FAN AUF FACEBOOK Blog Updates, News, Exklusivmaterial.
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Published 2010-02-09 11:30:55 in FASHION & PASSION
WEEK IN FASHION NO 5
The fashion hots and nots which got tweeted and blogged about this week.
Feb 03-Feb 08
Going grey no longer means bad hair day The blue rinse brigade includes junior blogger Tavi, Kate, or hot Swedish label Cheap Monday. It’s all making sense, really. Just look at all the oldies like your parents or Madonna going out of their ways to look like 17. Adopting old school old pensioner chic appears to be the only escape route. Because, you see, this look only really works on the puffy, wrinkle-free, aka unbotoxed face. As Kate will have to learn.
Fat just a fad in fashion mag world Predictably, the liason with reality didn’t last. LOVE tells us the naked truth about how deep their love is for the ubermodelbody. POP puts a v skinny and v underage looking Melanie Ward as cowgirl sexkitten on the cover. Meanwhile, at PURPLE, Lindsay Lohan stars as (sic) Christ on the cover and in a fashion spread shot by Terry Richardson. At least she’s NOT wearing Ungaro, but Zac Posen (on the cover), and Alexander McQueen.
Burberry goes 3D The hip Brit heritage label is to live-screen their London catwalk show to carefully selected fashion editors in Paris, New York, Tokyo or Dubai. Surely, those 3D-frames will be an instant must-have trophy accessory. But how will this NOT leave those people attending the real show feel ever so slightly jealous about not being able to share the historic moment when fashion goes Avatar, I wonder.
Money to waste? Invest in Louis Vuitton “Raindrop Besace” bin bag purse at $1,960.
Early adapter Dazed’s Katie Shilligford, pioneering hip grey last season in Paris:
The moment fashion went oficially grey : Gareth and Katie
© Play Hunter
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Published 2010-02-07 22:53:59 in FASHION & PASSION
DO YOU FEEL 2019?
After watching Blade Runner last night I feel LA 2019 is soo cutting edge.
© Blade Runner
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Published 2010-02-04 20:46:02 in MODEL CITIZENS
KETCH YOU UP LATER
Where to take international fashion friends for a drink in Zurich? Especially, if it’s a Friday, happy hour, winter. Your friend has just arrived from Tokyo and is bound to fly on to Sao Paulo in 5 hours time. Which helps you remember you and your style icon friend happened to party at legendary Copacabana Palace last season in Rio.
The usual suspects, like Dolder Grand (too far away), Odeon (too packed), and Kronenhalle bar (too old gentlemens’ bar – literally) were out of the question. We shared a glass of white wine at Rio bar, for obvious reasons (though the bar is more Zurich than Rio, I have to say).
In the end, we ended up at Longstreet bar, as we always do with international star guests. Because they always, always love the former strip joint in the heart of red light district. It’s been around for a while, but personally, I still find Longstreet one of the best places to start the night and experience that slightly seedy, rustic chic that’s so Zurich. Plus the red chintz was the perfect backdrop for Misha’s look.
For the shoot, we chose the gents. Henry VIII meets Tokyo Ketch Up. Yep, toilet shoots are most definitely always the best.
And Misha in Rio:
© Play Hunter
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Published 2010-02-02 19:43:16 in FASHION & PASSION
WEEK IN FASHION NO 4
The fashion hots and nots which got tweeted and blogged about this week.
Jan 25-Feb 02
Haute couture and low bitching At haute couture week, fingers were pointed not at couture but at fashion bloggers in front row. Well, teen-blogger Tavi actually, whose giant bow apparently blocked the sight of disgruntled fashion editors seated behind her. Brit broadsheet The Independent even felt it necessary to throw the gauntlet down at fashion bloggers at large with this scathing article. Note how no fashion blogger or even pro-blogger quote intrudes their fine piece of objective fashion journalism. Instead, Robert Johnson, associate editor at GQ can rant freely:
Bloggers are so attractive to the big design houses because they are so wide-eyed and obsessed, but they don’t have the critical faculties to know what’s good and what’s not. As soon as they’ve been invited to the shows, they can no longer criticise because then they won’t be invited back
I always thought ‘fashion fluff reporting’ is one of the main reasons why so many readers are swapping trad fashion press to subjective but truly passionate fashion blogs. Thankfully, NYT’s The Cut has a more balanced view.
But Pudri really nails that Tavi/blogger backlash thing down with this Suzy Menkes quote:
I hope, when she gets dumped so cruelly, as she will be, no doubt, by all the fashion people who’ve written her up, she can sort of cope with that.
noting:
…corruption of writers is a major problem of the fashion media system, not of bloggers alone, it is just more visible now.
My view: whether you’re a fashion editor, journalist, or blogger, the answer to this problem should always be:
© Play Hunter
If you are, that’s fine too, as long as you make it open and transparent.
UPDATE: The ever so great Business of Fashion blog has added very tasty food for thought(What The Independent didn’t tell us) on the subject.
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Published 2010-02-01 10:07:02 in FASHION & PASSION
POLANSKI WALKS FREE
Dramatic shift in the Roman Polanski case: Polanski finally walks free. In my new shoes. Courtesy of Nike.
A quick recap: on Dec 4 2009, the Oscar winning French film-director with a troubled past was assigned from prison to house arrest in his luxury Gstaad chalet in Switzerland. As this coincided with my VIP Nike iD session in Zurich, I wanted to mark the day with a personal tribute to one of my favourite directors. However, my order for a pair of iD POLANSKI black leather Cortez got turned down on the ground it was not in sync with the Nike policy. This may be because it… contains material that we deem to be inappropriate to display on our products. As MILKY WAY also got censored, I eventually settled for PLAY (=shorthand for Polanski, kind of). The Cortez arrived ok. I was ok. All that remained of my great masterplan was a screenshot. I was ok with that too.
© PLAY HUNTER
But somehow, someone at Nike clearly wasn’t. I don’t understand how this could happen to such a big corp. But I like to imagine somewhere in a backoffice there’s a Polanski fan who thought: JUST DO IT.
Thank you.
One pressing question: if I walked my POLANSKIS in th U.S. would that get me arrested?
© PLAY HUNTER
comments (2)
Published 2010-01-28 00:40:23 in PLAYLUST KOMPAKT (DE)
PLAYLUST KOMPAKT NO 8
Das wichtigsten Modenachrichten kompakt und auf deutsch.
14.-28. Januar 2010
Allerhand Mode für Opa-Hipster und gefallene Casino Kapitalisten aber nichts neues unter der Sonne gab’s vergangene Woche an den Männerschauen. Grosse Trendthemen sind: Top Gun-Fliegerjacken, Sherlock Holmes, und schuhmässig wird’s etwas Neonazi, weil ohne Springerstiefel geht 2010 gar nichts. Kurz: Männermode bleibt ein risikoreiches Unterfangen für den trendbewussten Mann. Die Challenge besteht ja immer darin, nicht wie ein Period Piece oder ein schwuler Moderedakteur auszusehen und sich gleichzeitig vom rucksacktragenden Anzugstypen im Pendlerzug abzuheben. Wie das klappt mit Heritage und dem urbanen Jetzt-Look, entdeckte ich neulich am Flughafen Zürich. Er, Mitzwanziger, Medienbranche, schätze ich mal, trug: Bart, Beanie, Streberbrille, Wollschal, Trench, alles in Schwarz, darunter ein Bretonenpulli. Die Skinny-Jeans steckten in Doc Martens. Ich dachte, holy shit, sieht das geil aus! Verdammt, warum habe ich die Kamera nicht mit. But you get the picture.
Der Look erinnerte mich eh an jemanden….Erdem, Modedesigner aus London, fotografiert am Swiss Textiles Award 09 in Zürich. © Play Hunter
Die Berlin Fashion Week produzierte vor allem viel heisse Luft, schade. Berlin ist unbestritten der modische Mittelpunkt im deutschprachigen Raum. Aber während der Modewoche nicht, ausser man steht auf Produkte aus der Brot- und Butterabteilung, also Turnschuh- und Streetwear. Oder, wie die Presse, auf C-Prominenz. Talent ist da, wird aber vom Hype-Gedöns arg plattgewalzt. Herausragend war Patrick Mohr, der auch diese Saison die Skandalshow schaffte (Stichworte: Trash, Schnecken und Bodybuilder). Erstaunlich, eigentlich, seine T-Shirt- und Jeanskollektion ist extrem tragbar. Der Hauptveranstalter, IMG, plant für den Herbst die Fashion Week Zurich (Eigenwerbung:Glamour & internationales Flair sind garantiert!). Laut Website ist es die Absicht, der Welt zu zeigen, dass die Welt sich von Schweizer Designern und Labels einkleiden lässt. You get the picture. Ich empfehle einen Blick auf die Sao Paulo Fashion Week zu werfen, der grösste Fashion-Event Lateinamerikas. Dort landeten auf dem Catwalk nicht nur internationale Topmodels wie Lara Stone, sondern auch Dumbo der Elefant, und das sehr sexy, wie dieser Exklusiv-Report zeigt.
Die Fratze nach dem Hype (schau genau, Berlin): Casino Kapitalisten, Adam Kimmel AW10 Presentation, Paris / Pics via Style.com
Willkommen bei Chanel News: Bei uns sitzen jetzt alle in der Ersten Reihe. Sagen die grossen Modelabel. Und sie sagen es via Video Live-Stream und auf YouTube, wie Prada eben in Mailand. Während die Big Guys bei den Kollektionen immer mehr auf Nummer sicher und Heritage setzen, potenzieren sie Innovation und Kreativität im Bereich Social Media. Die Mode entwickelt sich zur Entertainment-Plattform. So erstaunt es nicht, dass Modehäuser zunehmend zu Medienunternehmen mutieren. Allen voran Chanel. Karl Lagerfelds Web 2.0 Trumpf: Chanel News, ein Blog mit topaktuellen und selbstverständlich exklusiven Videoclips, Makings-of, und Behind-the-Scene Bildern. Und viel Karl. Das Ganze ist zwar noch absolutistisch auf Flash basiert und sans Kommentarfunktion. Was die Kommunikation doch etwas einseitig macht. Trotzdem: Vive la révolution!
Web 2.0 Couture mit Kaiser Karl © Chanel
A propos Web 2.0 Propaganda:
